I've already corrected and finished up the Gas Block since this wip collection was shot. The "off" looking indents on the barrel are actually cuts that are there so an armorer can replace the barrel, I've also fixed them since this wip as well.
I've left off the stock block-out, because I'm not sure if I want to use the standard stock or a 3rd party one. If anyone has any recommendations I'd love to see it.
The currently shown muzzle break is not standard. Its a Gemtech muzzle break and it still needs work.
Any C&C is appreciated
Last edited by Grimm_Wrecking; 06-20-2013 at 12:37 PM..
Reason: updating header image
, triangle, 487 Posts, Join Date Oct 2009, Location Kentucky
I went and got some better reference for the after market muzzle break and cleaned it up a bit.
Today I took a break from the core gun itself and did a PSG-1 mod grip for the AR-15 body, which is still in progress and not vert welded. Same with the lower.
I'm planning on throwing on a crap load of stuff.
There are still a couple accuracy issues with the gas block, but they are be small and I really wanted to put that down for a bit.
The left side looks like I forgot to pull a part outwards a bit and misaligned a couple pieces. I forgot to move the back half of the hinge bolt after fixing the mag well's width.
All of the parts are still hollow as well, have yet to add thickness.
I'm not sure about the psg-1 grip; I think I might need to go back to it?
From another thread
Originally Posted by Racer445
Actually the main inaccuracies usually lay on minor width issues which no one would ever notice. Most electric AR based airsoft rifles for example are wider than normal to fit the gearbox. Blame Tokyo Marui for that one.
Furthermore anyone who says never to use airsoft guns as a ref is a fool. All the common (non walmart) manufacturers produce weapons that are 98% accurate. Higher end weapons ($200+) are near perfect replicas, especially gas guns. I assume the hatred towards airsoft ref pics must stem from someone using a $20 walmart clearsoft gun as a ref at some point.
Pretty much what I was saying; hence mostly the small details, and its not an actual powder weapon (didn't want to spam up dude's ak thread)
, triangle, 487 Posts, Join Date Oct 2009, Location Kentucky
You definately have a good start. I think the reciever is a little to short it seems off to me. I have always liked the PSG-1 grips too but I think on your particular gun I think you should go with something for more CQB style. I say this because your barrel length is very short in comparison to a Precision style rifle. If you increase the barrel length I say leave the grip and maybe do a Magpul PRS stock.
On the other hand I am a fan of CQB weapons so I would go with a custom stock like maybe a Vltor e-mod stock.
And then for the grip maybe do a Magpul MOE grip or a MIAD.
Sorry I am a magpul fanboy when it comes to ar15 parts lol. I do like the detail in your gas block and piston system. Keep it up ill be following.
Thanks man, I think I'll do a 14.5" variant as well. The differences are minor model time wise.
By the length of the receiver I'm assuming you mean short as in length and not height? Either way I'll double check it both ways. I've been working zoomed in to get the creases/folds right so it wouldn't surprise me. The mag well was originally 1/2 the width it is now heh.
Height wise I still have 1/8-1/4"" to add, just been putting it off till I finished off the rest of the main look of the recievers.
I'll drop the Magpul grip on the cqb variant as well.
Awesome! Can't wait for updates. Keep going man just keep checking your refrences. Also the HK416 is in the same body an an ar15 so i mean for the lower reciever just look at a regular ar15 lower to get the right dimensions but for the details just look at the 416.
Completely rebuilt the upper--the original was poo supreme, and the rear half of the lower. Fixed some scale issues, though I still think the lower's body is a tad tall and the T raise seems a bit steep atm.
Did the 14.5" variant barrel and gas block though I've yet to add the vent/exhaust ports to either vers.
I started work on the carrier, and I'm getting a frustrating stretch at the forward right top edge just after the inset groove.
Everything is moving slow atm, as I started upgrading to 2011, but this hasn't been scrapped.
I'm missing the inner lip of the firing chamber and the opening may be a bit to big, but I'll address that a little later on. Anyone who wants to take a crack at it and tell me whats wrong go ahead I'm sure I've missed something.
The stock is real, its manufactured by Command Arms Accessories :: as I'm to understand its a complete p.o.s. but it looks cool.
The Mateba was designed by the same guy, Emilio Ghisoni. Its the same in the fact that they both share the barrel at the 6 o'clock position instead of the 12 o'c like a standard revolver.
The primary differences would be that the Mateba is a semi-automatic weapon, slide action revolver. The entire upper assembly of the Mateba rests on a slide which when fired primes the hammer and rotates the cylinder. A solution looking for a problem is the best way I've heard it put. In essence it functions much like a glock.
The Mateba has several different barrel variations which allow for different ammo loads.
The Rhino however is a typical revolver in the sense of it is just that a revolver. However, the hammer is actually a cocking lever instead of a hammer. It is also powered by an assembly of mechanics in the handle. Its too new to say just how reliable it will be and give a decent expectation on rate of failure under various conditions. But its still a solid gun.
The reason for dropping the barrel to the 6 o'c position from the 12 is so that the recoil from firing will be driven back into the shooters forearm instead of into the wrist. Much like the Kriss its intention is to reduce recoil in follow up shots.
looking great Grimm, i'm actually in the middle of modelling the Mateba right now(planning on starting a thread once i get a bit farther) yeah like you said the main difference is that the mateba is a slide action semi auto revolver, like the Webley-Fosbery, anywho ill be keeping track of this thread.
Subscribed! The Mp5 looks good, but I think the scratched edges on the body/reciever of the gun are a little bit strong. Maybe they're too bright in the diffuse, I can tell since thats obscured. You textured in dDo, but are you rendering in their previewer/with their shader?
I am working on the MP7 right now, I can imagine what kind of a nightmare it would be to unwrap this thing...
Last edited by Computron; 06-16-2013 at 10:16 AM..
Thanks. The scrapes on the edges of the upper receiver along the stock channels are popping like that from the angle of the light catching the spec hard. Its all in the spec along that edge, maybe a bit darker in the diffuse.
Though I do agree its probably too strong. When I go back over it, I'll see what I can do about toning it down, and probably reducing the severity/# a bit.
I didn't render with ddo's previewer / shader or the version of marmoset that is no a part of it. I keep that stuff turned off.
I have Marmoset Tbag proper, and pretty much always use it. It's hard to beat its ease of use and feature-set at the moment. In the future, who knows maybe it'll change, but for now.
It's my one and only <3
Even if it occasionally freaks out over maya's fbx files
Unwrapping it, isn't really so bad. It was a little tedious, but thats uvs in general. Its all just planar projects and cylindrical unwraps; I tend to keep the entire process pretty basic.
Honestly the most annoying and nightmarish part is packing everything u.u Its always a balancing act between logical placement, smart grouping, and not wasting a f-ton of space. As you can see the packing leaves something to be desired on this as well.
And more stuff:
I ended up having to rework most of the geo on the LP, because it just had a ton of unneeded crap, and a re-uv. Apparently, I also had no concept of texel densities 2 years ago so it ended up getting completely repacked.
and just for fun, some 360's
dunno how to embed self hosted videos, or if you even can