And gonna put this here already, played around a bit with highpoly's in TB2, the next project once the AR and the binocs are textured, still very rough, but I'm itching to work on this again, but gonna finish the stuff I started first.
your stuff in here's been excellent. those materials on the gun are off to a good start too
with darker textures on a model like with that AR or with the ACOG you did earlier, it gets a little hard to see them when they're on those backgrounds that are lighter than they are.
Thanks Rens, woot, roepatoepa and amsterdam.
Under each image I'v added a link to that image on a solid background.
Anyway, I think I'm almost done with this, I'll probably end up spending an hour or 2 tomorrow to maybe clean things up a bit and do some things I maybe forgot.
So feedback is appreciated, but unless it's like a "fix this it's horrible" kind of thing or some small fixes I'll just keep the feedback in mind for future projects.
Because at this point I really want to move on from this thing at this point.
Thanks HP & Azkur, and good point mikhga, I'll change that
And computron, in case you stop by this thread again, what do you think are the weak points or things that I could really work on in the future in your opinion?
Wow that gun is very impressive! Really love the material variation - great work there. What kinda of workflow/software do you use on the texturing side? And is your shader work done in Marmoset?
edit: Ah you edited it, just gonna leave it in if anyone else is wondering about the stock.
I wanted to do something a bit different from the usual military ar15/m4, so this was based on a AR pistol, give it a bit more of a "compact" feeling.
And those can't have an actual stock, only a buffertube with some padding on it. (and as a good thing it saves some UV space).
But if I ever felt like it I could just do a whole bunch of different attachments on a seperate UV sheet including a different stock, and put that on there, because the back part of the stock/AFG/light switch/light/rails (wich can be changed in length) on the handguard are detachable.
Texturing is just photoshop, altough I'm experimenting a bit with 3D painting software, used a bit of mudbox on this, kind of hoping that substance painter also has a solid set of painting tools besides the particle brushes, that's what I am really looking forward to, being able to paint and actually see the changes in the final result at the same time.
Awesome stuff Joeriv!! Only thing the bothers me is the depth of field in the 3rd render at the barrel. Just a small issue imho Keep up the great work!!
Small things:
The large screws on the left side of the acog are wrong:
Should be these:
Material is also way to spec-ish on the ACOG.
The Real one is rubberized.
I guess you copied it off an airsoft version?
Note: All Grey-ish Parts on an M4 are phosphorized.
Means, the Spec is very low. Surface is Rough.
Parts as the Barrelnut, Selector, ACOG Backupsight, Mag -Release, Forward Assist, some Bolts and such, are a bit too specular on your Rifle.
Also:
Upper and Lower Receiver are anodized.
Yours look like having a very thick coat of paint applied, due to the very deep scratches.
It also reads that way, because anodized metal looks more like having "sprinkles" all over.
You can achieve this by adding slight noise to your spec.
Be aware, that lower and upper receiver can have differen hues in tone.
Some upper receivers have a slight violett shade, or rather greyish.
All the Magpul parts look to glossy. They´re very flat in RL.
Specially the rail-ladder-covers. They´re made from rubber.
Agree on the text on the rubberband?? on the grip. Numbers are applied elsewhere, as friction/abbrasion would erease the lettering.
Also, the spec on the grip doesnt feel right. Looks way too glossy for a fibre plastic grip. Specially on newer AR´s.
In all, the spec/gloss feels very even. It´s not that on real weapons.
Nice Racegun you´re building there. ACOG just doesn´t make much sense to me But thats just my 2 cent.
Thanks HP & Azkur, and good point mikhga, I'll change that
And computron, in case you stop by this thread again, what do you think are the weak points or things that I could really work on in the future in your opinion?
LOL, sarcasm doesn't really work on the internet I suppose.
I was just joking because everyone is rightly saying this is awesome.
The one thing that is bugging me is the mirror writing on the handle. If your texture is going to mirror and you absolutely need text, you might consider floating it as an alpha plane as a lot of games do (Crysis for example). This way you can also get some extra resolution. But yeagh, its not going to be noticed so its up to you.
Thanks rumkugel for the feedback, altough at the moment I don't really have the time and go back and redo a lot stuff, but I will keep in in mind for future things, and in case I ever end up reworking it when things settle down a bit.
Maybe someone already asked this question, maybe I missed it, but:
How did you've done this super awesome additional bump? Photoshop filter, or Zbrush/Mudbox sculpting?
For the question biggleswort:
For text and more geometric things, I use Ndo2.
for finer stuff like in that picture it is just done by making a black/white heightmap (usually from a photo, and modifying that) or sometimes just some brushwork.
And then converted with the Xnormal Height to normal plugin for photoshop, it's faster to change the heightmap with finer stuff like that then to start up ndo every time.
And this one in particular, to get the effect it was a combination of 3 different overlays.
I never sculpt things like that, since every time you would want to change it, you would have to rebake, wich would be a bit of a timewaster.
I really love the work you are doing. Would you mind sharing your textures? I'm still struggling to control my materials in the new toolbag 2. Whats the texture size for the binoculars?
And slave_zero, in those shots its 2048, but those will get resized to 1024 for the final ones probably.
This one has been done with the metalness map (see topright), textures are not the latest ones, because I'm on my laptop, so it's from a backup I had on dropbox, I'll upload the latest ones tonight. http://imageshack.us/a/img35/7853/5btp.jpg
If you want to see "normal" flats, so not using the metalness map I also have these ones from that weldingtorch earlier in the thread: http://imageshack.us/a/img266/412/64sn.jpg
thank you for sharing. It looks like you are using the posted gloss map inverted in marmoset.
I think I read something about the differences with the metalness vs. specular map in the marmoset thread. But I have to dig this up again.
The maps on the welding torch make perfect sense to me and align with everything I read about pdr-rendering. (Btw: Awesome job on that assets as well) With the metalness map I'm a bit lost at the moment. Is there a reason to not use any colors in that map?
Really awesome stuff joeriv! Can you please share your process for matching the diffuse with the normals that you are overlaying in photoshop? I've always wondered how people match things like this so well. Are you just painting it in while using the normal as a guide?
Thanks polygoo (means a lot to me coming from you :poly124:)& Fred2303.
James for your question, I assume you read the post on the previous page.
When you make a black/white heightmap for the normal map overlay, you just make a copy of that and use that as a mask for a layer or group for the diffuse and other maps.
Well for the type of wear in that image where it's not only in the normals, it's usually the other way around, let's say you have chipped paint, I'll make a mask and start in the diffuse (doesn't matter it at this point what colour, it's just about the shapes/placement).
Then copy that to the other 2 maps (spec + gloss or reflectance/metalness + roughness).
Then work on that material (flat values or some actual surface properties if it's a larger surface area).
And to finish it off use that mask (or an earlier copy off it) to the normals.
Another small update, this time no art but the website itself. (didn't want to start a seperate thread for it).
I noticed that the site might be a bit slow, so if that happens, let me know how bad it is (so that I know if outside of making the image sizes smaller, if I also have to cut into the amount of images).
And ofcourse outside of that, if the site itself isn't breaking or other things that should be changed/improved.
Good website; plays nice without noscript too which I'm always a fan of. Good to see lots of pics and in good quality too; and wireframes/flats. I've got slowish net (3.5mb down) but I didn't find the website loading times annoying, even with so many images.
And I think you made a good choice with the text size and font. Simple and straightforward. Keen to see your next projects!
thanks s6 (that shotty is coming up real soon :poly121:), logithx and bek for the reply.
Seems like it was maybe temporary thing (was extremely slow for me at first), but it seems like I won't have to make to drastic changes on the loading times.
You're lucky the KSG looks cool, and the UTS looks like horse shit.
In all fairness, the KSG jams are typically from short throwing the pump. Seems to be a fairly strong action when you work the gun right Looking forward to it.
Hey this stuff is amazing and I really like the layout of the site. One quick question, for the flaking metal bits do you draw that by hand or do you use any sources from photos at all?
Gloriousczar, depends a bit on the type of damage/weathering, for a lot of more actual damage I'll use photo's, but I am still experimenting a lot, so I don't have one set way of doing things.
2 examples:
The metal chipping on the green was done by doing a select color range on a photo, doing a bit of cleanup, some adjustment layers, and erasing some parts that I didn't like.
Then I exported that layer to mudbox, and there I just erased the things I didn't like, clonestamped what I did like, or just moved things around.
Untill I got a mask (and from there on see the earlier posts I made on this)
The other one is the sort of dull brass on the black parts.
There I started off with the cavity map, brightness/contrast adjustment untill it was black&white, little gaussian blur, applied a layer mask, and then manually with some brushes refined/removed (this mostly)/added parts untill I was happy with it.
If I remember well (this has been a while ago) if you are looking for a good tutorial on this subject I'd recommend Alec moody his briefcase and tank texturing tutorial on 3dmotive.
So I have been getting a lot of questions about this, both there and outside of polycount so I decided to just put it into a small tutorial.
It's really basic stuff, but maybe it helps out some people.
I'm not a fan of the white background. It washes out details and gives a sterile feel to the image.
The shells seem a bit off. The front should be rounded, and the end crimped plastic. The cap should narrow just before the brass meets the plastic. The highlights on the plastic should be white, but this might just be a lighting problem. Fortunately, these differences should be entirely in the textures.
Replies
And if there is something that could be improved, don't hesitate to mention/point it out.
To start off the day finished off this bake.
And because it was the last post in the page, where I got yesterday with the AR texture in case someone wants to give some feedback on this:
http://www.polycount.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1964591&postcount=100
And gonna put this here already, played around a bit with highpoly's in TB2, the next project once the AR and the binocs are textured, still very rough, but I'm itching to work on this again, but gonna finish the stuff I started first.
Based on this concept:
http://halofanforlife.com/wp-content/uploads/Rail-Gun-concept-Sparth.jpg
with darker textures on a model like with that AR or with the ACOG you did earlier, it gets a little hard to see them when they're on those backgrounds that are lighter than they are.
Under each image I'v added a link to that image on a solid background.
Anyway, I think I'm almost done with this, I'll probably end up spending an hour or 2 tomorrow to maybe clean things up a bit and do some things I maybe forgot.
So feedback is appreciated, but unless it's like a "fix this it's horrible" kind of thing or some small fixes I'll just keep the feedback in mind for future projects.
Because at this point I really want to move on from this thing at this point.
http://imageshack.us/a/img856/4140/6y2k.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img18/9924/ceot.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img534/7629/15sk.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img822/1339/2g8h.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img844/9163/tcf2.jpg
Edit: Sorry, the sarcasm wasn't that clear I suppose. Its amazing.
And computron, in case you stop by this thread again, what do you think are the weak points or things that I could really work on in the future in your opinion?
I wanted to do something a bit different from the usual military ar15/m4, so this was based on a AR pistol, give it a bit more of a "compact" feeling.
And those can't have an actual stock, only a buffertube with some padding on it. (and as a good thing it saves some UV space).
But if I ever felt like it I could just do a whole bunch of different attachments on a seperate UV sheet including a different stock, and put that on there, because the back part of the stock/AFG/light switch/light/rails (wich can be changed in length) on the handguard are detachable.
base gun:
http://imageshack.us/a/img9/7291/pgu0.jpg
And I probably just gave more info then needed.
Texturing is just photoshop, altough I'm experimenting a bit with 3D painting software, used a bit of mudbox on this, kind of hoping that substance painter also has a solid set of painting tools besides the particle brushes, that's what I am really looking forward to, being able to paint and actually see the changes in the final result at the same time.
Presentation/shader is indeed just marmoset2.
The large screws on the left side of the acog are wrong:
Should be these:
Material is also way to spec-ish on the ACOG.
The Real one is rubberized.
I guess you copied it off an airsoft version?
Note: All Grey-ish Parts on an M4 are phosphorized.
Means, the Spec is very low. Surface is Rough.
Parts as the Barrelnut, Selector, ACOG Backupsight, Mag -Release, Forward Assist, some Bolts and such, are a bit too specular on your Rifle.
Also:
Upper and Lower Receiver are anodized.
Yours look like having a very thick coat of paint applied, due to the very deep scratches.
It also reads that way, because anodized metal looks more like having "sprinkles" all over.
You can achieve this by adding slight noise to your spec.
Be aware, that lower and upper receiver can have differen hues in tone.
Some upper receivers have a slight violett shade, or rather greyish.
All the Magpul parts look to glossy. They´re very flat in RL.
Specially the rail-ladder-covers. They´re made from rubber.
Agree on the text on the rubberband?? on the grip. Numbers are applied elsewhere, as friction/abbrasion would erease the lettering.
Also, the spec on the grip doesnt feel right. Looks way too glossy for a fibre plastic grip. Specially on newer AR´s.
In all, the spec/gloss feels very even. It´s not that on real weapons.
Nice Racegun you´re building there. ACOG just doesn´t make much sense to me
LOL, sarcasm doesn't really work on the internet I suppose.
I was just joking because everyone is rightly saying this is awesome.
The one thing that is bugging me is the mirror writing on the handle. If your texture is going to mirror and you absolutely need text, you might consider floating it as an alpha plane as a lot of games do (Crysis for example). This way you can also get some extra resolution. But yeagh, its not going to be noticed so its up to you.
Indeed, it doesn't always do, it crossed my mind it might be, but just went for the "worst case" interpretation :poly124:
On the writing, rumkugel also mentioned it, and I'll be fixing that (probably removing it, and putting it in a more logical/nonmirrored place).
(images on solid BG are in the link under it).
http://imageshack.us/a/img811/8985/pwh4.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img545/1139/wi9d.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img201/9468/trbb.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img69/1115/tsuk.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img845/7553/nsy8.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img844/6082/bhuj.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img689/1298/w93a.jpg
How did you've done this super awesome additional bump? Photoshop filter, or Zbrush/Mudbox sculpting?
For the question biggleswort:
For text and more geometric things, I use Ndo2.
for finer stuff like in that picture it is just done by making a black/white heightmap (usually from a photo, and modifying that) or sometimes just some brushwork.
And then converted with the Xnormal Height to normal plugin for photoshop, it's faster to change the heightmap with finer stuff like that then to start up ndo every time.
And this one in particular, to get the effect it was a combination of 3 different overlays.
I never sculpt things like that, since every time you would want to change it, you would have to rebake, wich would be a bit of a timewaster.
And slave_zero, in those shots its 2048, but those will get resized to 1024 for the final ones probably.
This one has been done with the metalness map (see topright), textures are not the latest ones, because I'm on my laptop, so it's from a backup I had on dropbox, I'll upload the latest ones tonight.
http://imageshack.us/a/img35/7853/5btp.jpg
If you want to see "normal" flats, so not using the metalness map I also have these ones from that weldingtorch earlier in the thread:
http://imageshack.us/a/img266/412/64sn.jpg
I think I read something about the differences with the metalness vs. specular map in the marmoset thread. But I have to dig this up again.
The maps on the welding torch make perfect sense to me and align with everything I read about pdr-rendering. (Btw: Awesome job on that assets as well) With the metalness map I'm a bit lost at the moment. Is there a reason to not use any colors in that map?
It is just saying wich part is metal, and wich part is a nonmetal.
EarthQuake explains it a bit here:
http://www.polycount.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1961639&postcount=762
Best thing to do is just try it out, once you use it it's very straightforward
James for your question, I assume you read the post on the previous page.
When you make a black/white heightmap for the normal map overlay, you just make a copy of that and use that as a mask for a layer or group for the diffuse and other maps.
Well for the type of wear in that image where it's not only in the normals, it's usually the other way around, let's say you have chipped paint, I'll make a mask and start in the diffuse (doesn't matter it at this point what colour, it's just about the shapes/placement).
Then copy that to the other 2 maps (spec + gloss or reflectance/metalness + roughness).
Then work on that material (flat values or some actual surface properties if it's a larger surface area).
And to finish it off use that mask (or an earlier copy off it) to the normals.
I noticed that the site might be a bit slow, so if that happens, let me know how bad it is (so that I know if outside of making the image sizes smaller, if I also have to cut into the amount of images).
And ofcourse outside of that, if the site itself isn't breaking or other things that should be changed/improved.
http://joerivromman.com
Hurry up with that shotty!
And I think you made a good choice with the text size and font. Simple and straightforward. Keen to see your next projects!
Seems like it was maybe temporary thing (was extremely slow for me at first), but it seems like I won't have to make to drastic changes on the loading times.
On the topic of KSGs, Sense you brought it up, They are terrible weapons. In terms of reliability, You should model a Mossberg 500.
Not as fun to look at though :poly142:
JamesWarren, no problem man, if you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
DirtyHairy, thanks, I'm glad you like it.
In all fairness, the KSG jams are typically from short throwing the pump. Seems to be a fairly strong action when you work the gun right
Gloriousczar, depends a bit on the type of damage/weathering, for a lot of more actual damage I'll use photo's, but I am still experimenting a lot, so I don't have one set way of doing things.
2 examples:
The metal chipping on the green was done by doing a select color range on a photo, doing a bit of cleanup, some adjustment layers, and erasing some parts that I didn't like.
Then I exported that layer to mudbox, and there I just erased the things I didn't like, clonestamped what I did like, or just moved things around.
Untill I got a mask (and from there on see the earlier posts I made on this)
The other one is the sort of dull brass on the black parts.
There I started off with the cavity map, brightness/contrast adjustment untill it was black&white, little gaussian blur, applied a layer mask, and then manually with some brushes refined/removed (this mostly)/added parts untill I was happy with it.
If I remember well (this has been a while ago) if you are looking for a good tutorial on this subject I'd recommend Alec moody his briefcase and tank texturing tutorial on 3dmotive.
It's really basic stuff, but maybe it helps out some people.
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/5046/98la.jpg
To reduce the amount of screenshots, these 2 are for the scoped views, and the inner stuff for the reload animation:
http://imageshack.us/a/img547/7571/57in.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img809/6434/v48e.jpg
The shells seem a bit off. The front should be rounded, and the end crimped plastic. The cap should narrow just before the brass meets the plastic. The highlights on the plastic should be white, but this might just be a lighting problem. Fortunately, these differences should be entirely in the textures.