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Is this a new idea? (cool PBR workflow trick).

JordanN
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JordanN interpolator
While gathering texture references for my environment, I was reminded of something related to PBR.

When taking photos for your albedo, you want no light information like shadows or specular in it. So this means the best photographs are taken in a diffuse or overcast like situation.

But I thought "what about doing the reverse"? Using a camera to take flash photographs of different materials in a dark setting.

So I turned off all the lights, and got really close and started taking pictures.
iNQtpE2VYdjVt.JPG
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ilrjwy4FmrjAG.JPG

So why is this important? Roughness. Under normal lighting conditions, it's actually harder to see all the micro surface details that you normally take for granted in texturing. Also, because there's only one lightsource and it's directly in front of you, you have greater control over how and what kind of specular reflections show up in your material.

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  • BagelHero
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    BagelHero interpolator
    I mean... For reference reasons this could be handy, though you could just grab the usual google image refs and get the same result... You are talking about just using it for reference, right?
  • JordanN
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    JordanN interpolator
    BagelHero wrote: »
    I mean... For reference reasons this could be handy, though you could just grab the usual google image refs and get the same result... You are talking about just using it for reference, right?
    Yeah.

    But this could be used when google images can't always find the same result. For example, if I had a unique toy that you can't find on the internet, and it's in a condition that clearly been used instead of brand new (i.e fingerprints, smudge marks, dents etc).

    I think for most searches, you wouldn't get high detail photographs of everday items with excessive wear, unless it's something high profile like a Car.
  • EarthQuake
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    One thing to note is that highlight size and intensity will depend on the size/diffusion of the flash, power of the flash and distance to the subject, all of which will vary depending on your equipment, size of object, etc, so this is only really useful for loose reference.

    A lot of times people make textures based on photo reference taken with flash, and they totally mess up the specular intensity. This sort of head on flash always makes objects appear to be more reflective than they actually are, because the light from a flash is sooo much brighter than the ambient light.

    But it can be a quick way to get a rough idea of the surface variation/roughness.
  • JordanN
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    JordanN interpolator
    In regards to the specular intensity, I tried something out with my camera. I notice there were 2 options for flash. The first is the "instantaneous" flash that takes a pic right after the flash. The other is a more "delayed" and "slower" flash that tries to fill the area with light first before taking a picture.

    I'm not sure if the latter is a more realistic.
    isTBw98ACEUrn.JPG


    I could also try playing with the actual exposure settings to see if that makes a difference as well.

    Edit: I went back to reshoot some more pics.

    I found out the farther away the camera is to the object, the less intense the highlights/reflections are.
  • Joost
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    Joost polycount sponsor
    Take one with diffuse lighting and one with flash so you can compare?
  • oglu
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    oglu polycount lvl 666
    for the texture itself you should use a polarfilter... to get the albedo only...
    http://udn.epicgames.com/Three/TakingBetterPhotosForTextures.html
  • JordanN
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    JordanN interpolator
    komaokc wrote: »
    Take one with diffuse lighting and one with flash so you can compare?
    I'm in a hurry right now, but here's one. Top is diffuse, bottom was with flash.

    iFNuiLbvVwIer.jpg
    iszE9MdIWuV8O.JPG


    Edit: The flash pic was taken before I learned about the specular thing. It's also taken head-on whereas it would be better to show the roughness/reflections at an angle or something.
  • Amsterdam Hilton Hotel
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    Amsterdam Hilton Hotel insane polycounter
    flash photos for reference can be pretty confusing. keep in mind both the intensity of these flashes and the physical relation of the lightsource to the camera, both are different from normal viewing conditions and you have to mentally adjust for that if you use refs like this.

    i honestly think you could generate more comprehensively useful reference if you put the object you want on a table, point a desk light at it, walk like 10 feet away and shoot it with a bit longer lens so it still fills the frame but doesn't have one tiny superbright spot on it
  • gsokol
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    When taking photos for your albedo, you want no light information like shadows or specular in it. So this means the best photographs are taken in a diffuse or overcast like situation.

    Just for reference, thats untrue.

    Best diffuse photographs for non pbr diffuse are best in overcast because you don't have directional light mucking it up.

    But you still get lighting information. The actual best way to get photos is using cross polarization, like oglu said.


    Your pictures are useful for studying how light affects a surface..but that doesn't necessarily mean its roughness. The top image, not sure what I'm looking at, but some of the variation on that surface is from a buildup of something on that metal...so its not neccsarily roughness info...and the flat wall is more just showing what would be normal detail....and is pretty uninformative for roughness specifically. The bottle is a cool example though.

    Point is...don't mistake lighting response for being just a single thing. You are merely observing how light affects a surface. Its an interesting way to analyze a surface, either way.
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