List of changes:
- I have made two tilling textures; one for the ruined brick wall and one for the rocky parts of the ground mesh
Description of the progress:
For both textures I have used Zbrush, Max, Xnormal and Photoshop.
Here's the run down of the process for this mesh.
1. Sculpt three bricks of different sizes and shapes
2. Import them into max and decimate to keep make the scene easier to manage.
3. Arrange the bricks in front of a square plane (in my case, 1024x1024 units)
4. Duplicate the bricks that go over the border by the length of your plane on X and Z axes to avoid any seams when rendering AO/Normal/etc maps.
5. Import the bricks into Zbrush
6. Import the lowpoly plane that had been used in step 3. and subidivide it.
7. Sculpt the plane via a combination of Clay Tubes, Clay Buildup, Trim Dynamic and Clay Polish brushes to create the mortar.
Now at this point the bricks had been tilling pretty well, but mortar was producing some major seams. Here's what followed next:
1. Export the mortar plane and render out a heightmap in Xnormal (this is just a personal preference of mine)
2. Bring the heightmap into Photoshop and use the offset filter to center the seams.
3. Import a new plane into zbrush and subdivide it.
4. Use the heightmap to displace the plane.
5. Sculpt away the seams; since the mesh is very organic some random brush strokes should be enough.
6. Export the now seamless mortar mesh back into Xnormal
7. Bake out a heightmap.
8. Bring it back into Zbrush and apply it one more time to the plane.
9. Export bricks and mortar and render out your maps.
While this works pretty well and gives you seamless results it's a pretty cumbersome. Switching between apps, exporting meshes and waiting for the renders to finish is both tiring and difficult to manage. Also, getting the same shape of the mesh after displacing it is a little bit difficult if you are pedantic about precision. You need to guess what looks right.
While I could have used 2.5d sculpting to tile my mortar quite easily in Zbrush I'm not very fond of 2.5D sculpting brushes.
With the cliff I have tried a different approach and I'm quite happy with what I came up with. This is my process:
1. Find a photo of a cliff that has the features you want.
2. Bring it into Photoshop and create a rough tilling texture
3. Convert that photo into a displacement map
4. Follow the rest of the steps that Bobby Rice discussed here: http://www.polycount.com/forum/showp...8&postcount=56
Now since my displacement map produced slightly "blobby" results, I had to go and sharpen up the cliff via a combination of Flatten, Flatten Planar, Trimd Dynamic, Planar, Polish Brushes and Smooth. I would often switch between the Subtractive and Additive modes when necessary. When sculpting I tried to avoid touching the edges of the plane as much as possible so that I wouldn't have to remove too many seams.
Now removing the seams was surprising easy. Here's how you can replicate my process:
1. Duplicate your subtool four times.
2. Import another lowpoly plane and subdivide it.
3. Offset each of the the cliff faces by exactly 100 units on X and y axes in both directions; surround the subdivided plane with your cliff faces like this
5. Go to the Subtool tab and select the subidived plane.
6. Go to the Projection section and change the Dist setting to 1 and Proection SHell to Z.
7. Hit Project All
8. You can now remove the seams.
Now this made sculpting my rocks incredibly easy and I no longer had to worry about getting too close to the edges of my plane. The process takes a little while to get used to, but the benefits of not having to leave zbrush or going into 2.5 d are great.
-Create grass, dirt and roof textures.
-Try to avoid using external apps for baking normal/AO maps if possible.